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Moshi changes

Page 170: Moshi: Orientation and getting around

The THB buuilding by the clocktower has been given a lick of bright blue paint, smothered in adverts for a mobile phone company and is now known as the Vodacom building.

There's now a new map of Moshi, produced by Tom Kunkler, owner of the Tanzanian Coffee Lounge (see below). It costs Ts4000 and is by some distance the most accurate map of the town available. You can pick up a copy from the Coffee Lounge.

Moshi: Services

Page 170: Banks and moneychangers

The Trust (spelt 'Trast' on the sign above the door) foreign exchange bureau on Chagga St, opposite the Tanzanian Coffee Lounge (see below), was offering the best rates the last time we checked, though with Executive in the Vodacom building (formerly the THB building, as labelled in the second edition of the guide) by the clocktower coming a very close second and, according to Moshi residents, is often superior. Unfortunately, the rates at the Chase bureau on Rindi Lane have become markedly less generous since we recommended it in the second edition of the guide.

Page 170-171: Communications

Easy.com remains the finest internet place and now offers cheap international phone calls, at just Ts250 per minute to Europe, Australia and South Africa, and Ts200 per minute to America. Presumably the calls are made through the internet using Skype or something similar, so it's possible the phone calls could be subject to delays on the line or other problems. However, it's so cheap that it's definitely worth trying out.

New services

The Leopard Hotel now offers massages - just the thing or that post-trek indulgence? Pay Ts8000 for back, Ts8000 each for front and back of legs - or Ts30,000 for the full body.

There's a curious office called the Take Care Center just off the Mawenzi Road on the road leading down to the Buffalo. The office seems to exist for two reasons: to promote the Kiliman challenge (about which, see the link elsewhere on this website); and to offer their services as guides around Moshi. One has to say their are towns and cities in Tanzania where one could more usefully employ the services of a guide, but cosy, compact Moshi isn't really one of them. Still, if you fancy the company of a local guide for a day, they only cost US$1-5 per day. There is a tour agency -- Chagga Tours (web www.chagga-tours.com) attached to the office, though there didn't seem to be anybody around willing to sell me anything like a climb or safari, so whether they are in the business of arranging expeditions or not is a question that will have to remain unanswered until the next edition.

Page 172: Moshi: Where to stay

Page 172: The Da'Costa Hotel has, like its Arusha namesake, changed its name and is now known as the Kilimanjaro Backpackers.

The glorious, knackered Livingstone Hotel opposite Philip Hotel has been bought and is currently undergoing renovations. If the new owners handle it correctly and keep much of the original features it could be the most beautiful building in Moshi. Though there's an awful lot of work to be done, so don't expect it to open anytime soon.

Page 177: Moshi: Where to eat and drink

New restaurants and coffee shops

Deli Chez Incongruously large and flash place next to the decidedly low-key Coffee Shop on Hill St. Serves a wide variety of snacks and dishes with influences from the Far East and the subcontinent, but by far the best thing about the place is the rooftop dining area.

Tanzanian Coffee Lounge Situated just a few metres south of the Kindoroko Hotel, on the opposite side of the road, Tanzanian Coffee Lounge is the baby of German guidebook writer and entrepreneur Tom Kunkler and is now the place to hang out in Moshi, rivalling - indeed, surpassing - even the long-standing Coffee Shop on Hill St. Good, reasonably priced drinks and snacks, papers to read, a juke-box to listen to, internet to surf and souvenirs to browse, it's burgeoning popularity is undoubtedly deserved.

There's a small ice-cream parlour opened up near Precision Air.

Page 180: Nightlife

Glacier, in the smarter Shanty Town district on Sekou Toure Way, about 100m past the Lutheran Hostel, is, ironically, the hottest place in town (which, given Moshi's paucity of decent clubs and bars, is not saying a great deal). I believe it's owned by the same people who run Ahsante Tours. It's open every night. The Alberto Pub continues to gather a reasonable crowd at the weekends, though is now under serious pressure from the Malindi Club, a few metres west of Philip Hotel. There's no sign outside - just a strip of cloth shading the entrance and a plethora of beer adverts - but inside you'll find a cavernous place serving food, beer and showing football on the telly. The recipe, of course, is not unique even in Moshi - one can find similar at the East African Pub - so it comes as no surprise that they share the same owner. We think it's a good local spot. Finally, by the Leopard is Kili Attik, which is promoting itself as the place to be seen in Moshi with over 120 different cocktails available. Unfortunately, the promotion seems to be having little effect, and currently it's a bit quiet.

Page 181: Moshi trekking agencies

Page 182: Ahsante Tours town-centre office opposite the Zebra Hotel has gone, and everything is now organised from their headquarters on the way out of town

Page 182: Akaro Tours Contrary to popular rumours, Akaro is still running. The company has had a lot of problems recently since the death of its much-missed founder, Ally Ibrahim. Though it has had some very wobbly times over the past year – and, it must be said, has received a few complaints from customers – the company is now back on its feet and organizing treks once more.

Page 183: The Kilele Africa offices opposite the Immigration office have gone.

Page 184: Mauly Tours have moved, and now have their Moshi offices next to the Immigration office on Boma Road.

Page 186: Shah Tours offices are now on Sekou Toure Way, on the way to Shanty Town.

Page 182: Swiwsco Safari's (tel 027-2753070, web www.swiwsco.com) is the new name for Collin's Safaris. Swiwsco stands for Small World Initiative for Women's Security and Children's Orphanage and tells you that the company is now, according to boss Collins Tamimu, an NGO that still organises treks up Kilimanjaro, though some of the profits now go into funding an orphanage and helping women suffering from HIV. The owner claims that their orphanage, about 5 minutes from the Buffao Hotel, currently houses 30 children, 14 of whom are orphans and 16 from impoverished backgrounds. All of which sounds very worthy and noble - though if you're thinking of booking we would insist you check very carefully how their operation runs, and to make sure that some of the money does actually reach those who they are claiming to help. It is not that we are sceptical about their operation in particular, but time spent writing about Tanzania has taught us that, sadly, some individuals are not above pretending to be a charity if they think it will bring in more customers, even though they have no intention of passing on any cash to those they claim will be beneficiaries of their largesse.

Page 186: Tangyanika Travels office on Rindi Lane has closed.

New agency

African Spoonbill Tours (tel 0713 408 291, web www.africanspoonbilltours.com) is a new operator located on the first floor of the NHC Building on Rindi Lane near Stanbic. To find it, look for Tangyanika Travels on the Moshi plan in the second edition; it lies just to the south of there. (Tangyanika Travels, as stated below, has now disappeared.) It has received one recommendation from readers.

Eco Tours (tel 027-2751480, web www.ecotourism-tz.com) is another new venture, sharing the old Shah Tours office on the main Mawenzi/Nyerere Road with Kinyonga Tours (see below).

Kinyonga Tours and Safaris (tel 027-2752218, web www.kinyongasafaris.tz.com) Not officially new, but they are to this guide! Now installed in Shah Tour's old Moshi office, Kinyonga used to operate from the Kilimanjaro Guides Cooperative hut at Marangu Gate, from where they still hire out equipment to trekkers and their crew. Their treks are fairly standard though if anything is distinctive about this team, it is the patient and kind attitude they show to their clients. Covering all routes, they are worth checking out for those seeking a budget but not bottom-dollar trek.Price-wise, they are just about identical to Zara.

Moshi: Getting away

Page 188: Buses

The offices of Dar Express has moved just a few metres east from its location in the guide (where it stood in the forecourt of a petrol station), and now stands to the other side of the Liberty Bar. The Scandinavian offices have moved too. From the Coffee Shop (the original one on Hill St that's mentioned in the guide, not the Tanzanian Coffee Lounge that we write about in this update), head west, cross Market Street and continue up the hill, taking the first left. The offices are on your right after a few metres.

The offices of the new Kilimanjaro Express service (tel 0754 864 244) can be found next to Air Tanzania on the Boma Road. Their buses to Dar leave at 8.30 and 9.30am and cost Ts18,000.

Page 189: Flights and shuttle buses

Both Precision Air and Air Tanzania now say that they refuse to allow people without tickets for their flights to use their shuttle bus service to Kilimanjaro Airport. I'd be surprised, however, that they would refuse you if they had spare room on their buses and you thrust a few thousand shilingi in their direction.

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